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Damp walls and seepage: rising damp vs leaks, and how to fix each

A damp patch on a wall looks the same whatever its cause, but the fix is completely different. Rising damp, seepage from rain and a leaking pipe each need their own treatment. Work out which one you have before you paint or plaster over it.

Updated

In this guide
  1. Damp is a symptom, not a diagnosis
  2. The three causes compared
  3. Quick checks at home
  4. Fixing rising damp
  5. Fixing seepage and external walls
  6. Plaster additive and internal fixes
  7. When to open the wall
  8. Monsoon timing

Damp is a symptom, not a diagnosis

Paint or plaster over a damp wall and the stain comes back in a few months. That is because the water source is still there. Find the source first, then choose the treatment.

The three causes compared

Where the moisture shows on a wallFour causes, four patterns. Find the source before you paint or plaster.Rising dampLow on the wall, up toabout a metreSalt crystals, flakingplaster, no rain tidemarkSeepageTop floor or outside wall,grows after rainWorse in monsoon, nearparapet or cracksPlumbing leakOne spot near a pipe,bathroom or tankDamp when taps or showerrunCondensationCorners and cold wallsPatchy mould, worst onwinter mornings, notidemark
Rising damp, seepage and plumbing leaks
CauseWhere it showsPattern to look forClue
Rising dampLow on the wall, from the floor upA damp line along the skirting, often up to about a metreSalt crystals and flaking plaster at the base, no tidemark from rain
Seepage through the wallAnywhere, often on the top floor or the outside wallPatch grows after rain, may be far from the sourceWorse in monsoon, near parapets, sunshades, cracks or outside downpipes
Plumbing leakNear a bathroom, kitchen, pipe run or water tankWet patch in one spot, may be constantDamp when taps or shower are used, or a water meter that keeps moving
CondensationCorners, cold walls and behind furnitureMould in patches, worst in winter morningsNo tidemark, dries out when heated or ventilated

Quick checks at home

  • Look for a tidemark. A clear brown line at the edge of a damp area usually means water came from the ground or a leak. Condensation rarely leaves one.
  • Run the taps, shower and washing machine for a while and watch the wall. A damp patch that grows points to a plumbing leak.
  • Check the outside after rain. Look at the parapet, coping, sunshade joint, cracks and downpipe near the patch.
  • Tape a square of plastic sheet to the wall for a few days. Moisture under the sheet points to the wall itself, and moisture on the room side points to condensation.
  • Check the pipes that run in or near the wall before opening anything.

Fixing rising damp

Rising damp needs a damp proof course, a barrier that stops water wicking up the wall. If the building has one, it may have failed or been bridged by soil or paving higher than it. If there is no course, a specialist can inject a chemical damp proof course, or the plaster can be removed and redone with a salt resistant, waterproof render.

Lower the ground outside the wall where it is too high, so the outside soil sits below the damp proof course. Plastering over a rising damp wall with ordinary plaster will hide the problem for a while and then fail.

Fixing seepage and external walls

For seepage, close the entry point first. Repair the parapet and coping, seal the top joint of any sunshade, fix cracks with a flexible filler, and correct the downpipe so it does not overflow onto the wall.

Then coat the outside wall with a waterproof external coat, such as a polymer modified cement coat or an elastomeric paint designed for external walls. Apply it in two coats after the wall is clean and the cracks are filled, and mesh over any crack that keeps moving. Do this in the dry season, and let the coat cure before the first heavy rain.

Plaster additive and internal fixes

A waterproofing additive can be mixed into internal plaster or render. It reduces the water taken up by the plaster and helps a new wall stay drier. Use the dosage on the label, mix it with the cement as directed, and use it on clean masonry after the source of water is fixed.

An additive does not stop an active leak or rising damp on its own, and it will not fix a wall that is still soaking from outside. Treat the cause, then plaster.

When to open the wall

  • The damp spreads from one spot and no outside cause is visible.
  • The damp is near a pipe run, and the water meter keeps moving with no visible leak.
  • The patch is on a tiled wall, where the water may be behind the tiles.
  • Rust stains or cracks appear on a concrete column or beam, which can mean the steel is corroding.
  • The wall sounds hollow, crumbles or shows salt bloom.

Open a small test hole first, not the whole wall. Check the pipe, the joint and the masonry, and mend the fault before closing. A plumber and an engineer can help if the hole shows corroded steel.

Monsoon timing

Do the diagnosis and external work before the monsoon, in the April to early June window when walls and the outside are dry and days are reliable. Coats need dry days to cure, so a coat applied in July may wash off before it sets. In the rains, do only emergency patches and keep notes on where the damp appears, so you can fix the source later.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if a damp wall is rising damp or a leak?
Rising damp sits low on the wall and follows the floor line. A leak shows up near a pipe or wet area and changes with water use. Seepage gets worse after rain and can appear high on the wall.
Will painting over damp fix it?
No. Paint hides the stain for a short time, then the damp comes back. Find and fix the water source, let the wall dry, then paint.
Does a plaster additive stop damp?
It helps reduce water absorption in new or re-plastered walls, but it does not stop an active leak or rising damp on its own. Fix the cause first.
Should I waterproof the outside wall or the inside?
Fix the cause first, then coat the outside for rain seepage. Use inside treatment and plaster for surface damp once the outside is dry and sealed.

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